Case Study: zwissTex and James Heal, over 300 years combined textiles innovation

Both established in 1872, James Heal and the original founding companies of zwissTEX have much more than longevity in common, each having innovation and integrity at their core, along with a focus on providing sustainable solutions for among others, the apparel and automotive industries internationally. 

zwissTEX Germany GmbH offers textile production in all stages, using state-of-the-art technologies to provide the full spectrum of textile products, plus coatings and finishing, along with the benefit of customisation, delivering batches of all sizes and kinds with first-class precision. 

Having become adept in advanced production processes, combined with their extensive textiles expertise, zwissTEX was well placed to develop the high quality warp knitted fabrics and spacer fabrics they offer today, plus a wide variety of lamination processes, material combinations, coating methods, and customisable options to achieve the most outstanding effects in technical textile function and appearance.
 

Since 2017, the company has been keen to highlight their efforts to operate sustainably in terms of economic, environmental, and social issues, as well as what we might usually think of when discussing sustainability. 

Aside from their impressive quality accreditations and extensive efforts to achieve organisational excellence, zwissTEX has made significant advancements in the reduction of CO2e emissions and environmental protection. Take their latest development zwissPRINT as a prime example.

zwissPRINT is an extremely fast and resource-saving method to print any pattern, shape and colour on any textile such as knitted and woven fabrics, knitwear, nonwovens and faux leather. The unique zwissPRINT process saves hundreds of tons of CO2e, 16 million litres of water, as well as many hours in operations and logistics annually when compared to conventional dyeing and digital printing procedures.

Across all product lines ranging from outdoor, sportswear through vehicle headlinings to backing laminations, the company’s quality and environmental standards are incredibly high. The impressive accreditations held by zwissTEX include:

• ISO 9001 - Quality Management
• IATF 169494 - Quality Management, Automotive
• ISO 14001 - Environmental Management
• ISO 50001 - Energy Management
• Standard 100 / Recycled Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex® - Pollutant management in company and supply chain
• Bluesign® - Chemical safety in company and supply chain
• Global Recycled Standard (GRS) - Recycled materials in product chain
• HIGG Index - Social and ecological performance

To kick off our conversation, we asked Laboratory Manager Vincenzo Pumo, about how zwissTEX continuously meet these high expectations and quality standards. “Our laboratory analyses materials and carries out a wide variety of tests. We check work in progress and finished products for compliance. In addition, the lab provides support in the development of new products.” Vincenzo explains. 

As Laboratory Manager, Vincenzo is responsible for ensuring that all testing and measuring equipment meets certified quality standards and that all methods used are implemented in accordance with the standards and specifications. He describes his biggest challenge as timely delivery. 

“With the high volume of work and speed of throughput required to meet the fast turnarounds required, particularly by the automotive industry, order processing and testing needs to be performed to very short lead times.” 

Textile testing undertaken covers product weight and dimension checks, tensile strength, tear resistance, burning behaviour, bow distortion, colour fastness to light and weathering, resistance to wear and abrasion by the Martindale, colour fastness using a crockmeter, determination of stiffness in bending and colour assessment.

It is anticipated due to the new zwissPRINT production process, there will be an increase in the volume of laundering testing along with chemical testing to be undertaken to ensure product quality standards remain consistent.
 

Before joining zwissTEX as Lab Manager in 2010; we meet as he is about to celebrate 15 years with the company, Vincenzo worked in the development of smart textiles for three years after finishing university. 

James Heal equipment was already in the zwissTEX lab at that time, including a Martindale 103 dating back to 1991, which is still in good working order and being used for some testing. Since his appointment, a CrockMaster and three Titan tensile testers, plus a further 9-station Martindale have been installed.

Explaining the reason for choosing the Titan instruments for tensile testing in the lab, Vincenzo explains, “James Heal's traditional closeness to textiles is tangible. The devices are robust, work reliably, are easy to use and, above all, are very well thought out in terms of practical textile testing.

This became particularly clear when we purchased the three Titan instruments. We were immediately familiar with how to operate the machines. In my opinion, this is because they were developed specifically for textile testing.

Different software was initially the biggest change for us from the previous brand of instrument and perhaps the only challenge worth mentioning, however, today we can handle it intuitively.”
 

Vincenzo summarises how the change came about, as he and his supervisor took a leap of faith, making the decision to switch tensile testers from another well-known brand to the James Heal Titan instruments.

“At the time our existing machines were technically outdated, including the one we had purchased just a few years before. Renewal was unavoidable, however, the offer for an overhaul from the existing supplier did not seem appropriate to us, it was too high.

One thing led to another. We accepted an invitation from Mr Gerold as representative of James Heal to a trade fair stand where we received an introduction to a Titan 5 universal testing machine. The operation and recording options of the James Heal software convinced us to order these machines in due course. I would also like to mention the smart flexibility for exchanging the measuring heads at this point. 

The price was right and today we have these three machines in our laboratory. Before the purchase, we could not have known that Mr Gerold and James Heal would provide such excellent support. Especially at the beginning, but Lutz was on site to answer detailed questions and proactively solve problems. We can still rely on his willingness to help today.

Looking back, this confirms that we made the right decision. I would also like to praise the James Heal service technicians. I have always had very friendly specialists who were willing to explain my questions.”

We asked how James Heal instruments have helped to overcome the challenges the zwissTEX Lab Manager had prior to their installation.

“Test orders can now be processed more efficiently. Not only in terms of usability, but also in terms of technical reliability.” says Vincenzo. Common goals for the majority of textile testing labs; speed, efficiency and accuracy.

“One of my favourite functions on the Titan, for example, is the ‘quick start button’. It is as simple as it is ingenious. All functions can be operated mechanically. That is great!

I was pleasantly surprised that James Heal offer a repair kit for tension clamp jaw faces for the Titan. This is a very welcome alternative to buying new.

But the technology on the CrockMaster with the loading of the standard fabric, as well as the mechanism for attaching and removing the test head, are also ingeniously designed.

And of course, our new Martindale device, I couldn't think of better usability. My experience is that James Heal simply has well thought-out devices with extremely long-lasting quality.”

As a company zwissTEX look to work with similarly responsible suppliers. In his words Vincenzo says that he sees James Heal as a reputable company that places great value on selling extremely good quality to its customers. And all of this from a country where social justice is very important, as a result he appreciates the fact that James Heal products are designed and made in the UK.

James Heal’s corporate values reflect this emphasis on the importance of people and are congruent with those of zwissTEX as a company, no matter where in the world. Notably ZwissTEX Mexico is also setting standards on social sustainability in their region receiving accreditation having been shown to demonstrate excellence as a responsible employer in the treatment of personnel.

In closing, Vincenzo says of the support from the James Heal Germany team, “I am happy that Mr Gerold is always available to address my technical and commercial requests, knowing I will get an effective and speedy response.”

Head of Sales for James Heal Germany, Lutz Gerold adds, “It is always a pleasure working with Mr Pumo and the zwissTEX team. I look forward to supporting him and continuing our excellent business partnership into the future.” 

Martindale 9-station
Martindale 103 4-station
CrockMaster
Titan 10
Titan 5 – two instruments
Sample cutter 100cm2

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